Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital, is a city that wears its history on its sleeve—layered, sometimes raw, but always compelling. Resting at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers, it offered me a heady mix of gilded temples, French colonial architecture, a tragic past, and a pulsating street life that kept me coming back for more. Here’s how I explored its unforgettable charm.
My Journey Begins
I arrived in Phnom Penh on the afternoon of November 10th, 2023, cruising into the city by boat from Châu Đốc, Vietnam. The next morning, I set out for a walk along the lively riverfront promenade. Lined with swaying palm trees and open-air cafés, the walkway buzzed with activity, including friendly tuk-tuk drivers offering city tours. I’ve always enjoy beginning my time in a new city with a guided tour by a local — it’s a great way to get to know the place while also supporting the local community.
I chose a friendly driver who also served as a guide, and we set off on a half-day tour. We began at the magnificent Royal Palace before driving through the city’s fast-changing skyline, now dominated by sleek high-rises and Chinese-funded modern developments. At Wat Phnom, the city’s namesake temple perched on a shady hilltop, we paused to soak in its calm, spiritual aura. We then crossed the river to visit the peaceful Wat Svay Chrum—a tranquil contrast to the city’s buzz.
Our itinerary also included the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21), a former school turned torture prison during the Khmer Rouge regime. But I decided to skip it. Some chapters of history are just too painful to confront in person, and I wasn’t keen to witness the depths of cruelty etched into those walls.
Over the next few days, I explored Phnom Penh at my own pace—wandering through sacred temples, historic landmarks, and the city’s lively, often chaotic markets. One evening, I boarded a scenic cruise along the Mekong River. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the city lit up in a golden glow, its reflection shimmering on the water—a quiet, beautiful contrast to the day’s bustle.
A City in Celebration
My visit happened to coincide with Cambodia’s 70th Independence Day celebrations. The entire city was draped in flags and fairy lights, and there was a palpable sense of national pride in the air. Streets buzzed with activity, and the royal palace grounds shimmered with festive displays. It was a vibrant time to be in Phnom Penh.
Just a week later came the annual Water Festival—Bon Om Touk—one of Cambodia’s biggest and most anticipated events. Unfortunately, my bus from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was caught in a colossal traffic jam, and I missed much of the celebration. But I was lucky enough to catch the highlight: the spectacular boat parade on the Tonlé Sap River. Illuminated floats drifted across the water under a starlit sky, cheered on by thousands gathered along the riverbanks. It was magical—an unforgettable celebration of tradition, resilience, and community.
My Top Recommendations: Must-See Sights and Memorable Experiences in Phnom Penh
Royal Palace
A symbol of Cambodia’s monarchy and architectural brilliance, the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is a stunning complex with golden spires and traditional Khmer roofs. Visitors can explore its immaculate gardens and the Throne Hall, where royal ceremonies still take place. Though some areas are reserved for the royal family, much of the palace is open to the public. Highlights include the Moonlight Pavilion and various galleries that showcase royal regalia and artifacts. Dress modestly and arrive early to beat the crowds and midday heat.
Tip: When visiting the Royal Palace, head to the left side of the main pavilion (the one displaying photos of the royal family – top left pic) to find the official entrance and ticket booth. Don’t be misled by some tuk-tuk drivers or unofficial guides who may claim the palace is closed if you approach from other gates.
Silver Pagoda
Located within the Royal Palace grounds, the Silver Pagoda is famed for its gleaming floor, made of over 5,000 silver tiles. It houses priceless national treasures, including a life-sized gold Buddha encrusted with diamonds and an emerald Buddha made of baccarat crystal. Unlike most pagodas, this one contains no resident monks, serving instead as a repository of national wealth and devotion. The surrounding courtyards feature intricate murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana. It’s a must-visit for those interested in Cambodia’s spiritual and artistic heritage.
National Museum of Cambodia
Home to the world’s largest collection of Khmer art and artifacts, the National Museum offers a fascinating journey through Cambodia’s ancient history. The red sandstone building, built in traditional Khmer style, displays intricately carved statues, ceramics, and relics dating from prehistoric times to the Angkorian period. Highlights include statues of Vishnu, Shiva, and Jayavarman VII, as well as rotating exhibits on Khmer culture. The serene courtyard garden is a peaceful place to rest after your tour. Audio guides and English signage help enhance the visitor experience.
Wat Phnom
Set on a tree-covered hill in the heart of Phnom Penh, Wat Phnom is the city’s namesake and tallest religious structure. According to legend, it was built in 1372 to house sacred Buddhist statues found by a wealthy widow named Daun Penh. Today, locals flock here to pray for good fortune, especially during the Khmer New Year. The temple is surrounded by gardens, playful monkeys, and a vibrant atmosphere. It’s also a great spot for panoramic views of the city below.
Wat Ounalom
As the spiritual center of Cambodian Buddhism, Wat Ounalom is the headquarters of the country’s Buddhist order. Located near the riverside, it houses a sacred eyebrow hair of the Buddha and features beautiful murals and stupas. The wat is home to over 40 monks and is actively used for religious ceremonies and teachings. The architecture is a blend of traditional and colonial influences, adding to its historical charm. It’s a peaceful place for quiet reflection and learning about Theravada Buddhism.
Independence Monument
This lotus-shaped monument, built in 1958, commemorates Cambodia’s independence from French colonial rule. Standing proudly at the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards, the Independence Monument is beautifully lit at night and often serves as the backdrop for national celebrations. The structure is heavily influenced by Angkorian design and features intricate carvings. Nearby parks and fountains make it a pleasant area for an evening walk. It’s best viewed during sunrise or sunset for dramatic photo opportunities.
Norodom Sihanouk Memorial
Dedicated to Cambodia’s revered former King, the Norodom Sihanouk Memorial features a bronze statue beneath a grand traditional-style pavilion. This public monument, located near the Independence Monument, honors his role in gaining independence and his contributions to national unity. The area is well-maintained and patrolled, making it safe for visitors both day and night. The statue is especially beautiful when illuminated in the evening. It’s a poignant reminder of Cambodia’s modern history and leadership.
Wat Svay Chrum
Tucked away from the tourist trail, Wat Svay Chrum offers a peaceful escape and insight into daily Buddhist life. With its colorful murals and tranquil surroundings, it’s a lesser-known yet culturally rich temple worth visiting for those interested in local spirituality. Monks here are welcoming to visitors, and the temple grounds often host community gatherings and rituals. The simple charm and absence of crowds make it ideal for quiet contemplation. It’s best visited in the early morning when the monks chant prayers.
Sisowath Quay
Stretching along the banks of the Tonlé Sap and Mekong rivers, Sisowath Quay is a lively promenade lined with cafes, colonial-era buildings, and shops. It’s a popular spot for an evening stroll, people-watching, or enjoying sunset views with a cool drink in hand. The riverside comes alive in the evenings with street performers and food vendors. It’s also where many local festivals and processions take place.
Sunset cruise
A boat cruise along the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers offers a fresh perspective of Phnom Penh. From sunset rides to dinner cruises, visitors can admire city landmarks, local life along the riverbanks, and the merging of the two rivers from the calm of the water. Many cruises include drinks and snacks, and some offer full meals with live music. It’s a relaxing way to escape the city’s bustle and see Phnom Penh from a new angle. Don’t forget your camera—sunsets over the water are spectacular.
Central Market (Phsar Thmey)
Housed in a striking yellow Art Deco building inspired by the Baphuon Temple in Angkor, the Central Market is one of Phnom Penh’s busiest shopping hubs. Inside, you’ll find everything from jewelry and electronics to clothes, souvenirs, and local snacks. The market is divided into sections, making it easy to navigate. Bargaining is expected, so brush up on your negotiation skills. It’s also a great place to sample street food and fresh tropical fruits.
Night Market
Located along the riverside, the Night Market is a fun, relaxed spot to browse local fashion, accessories, and handicrafts. In the center is a food court with low tables and mats where you can enjoy grilled meats, Khmer dishes, and fresh fruit juices under the stars. Live music and cultural performances often liven up the atmosphere. It’s especially popular with young locals and tourists looking for a vibrant evening out. The market usually opens around 5 p.m. and winds down by 10 p.m.
Phnom Penh Central Post Office
Built in the French colonial era, the Central Post Office is an elegant building that reflects Phnom Penh’s architectural heritage. Though still functioning, it’s also a point of interest for architecture lovers and history buffs, surrounded by other colonial structures in the Old Quarter. The yellow façade, arched windows, and tiled roof make for great photo opportunities. A small café nearby makes it a pleasant stop while exploring the area. It’s a reminder of the city’s colonial past and evolving identity.
Heng Ly Cycle Market
If you’ve ever wondered where bikes go to die, look no further than Phnom Penh’s Heng Ly Cycle Market—a fascinating graveyard of second-hand bicycles. This bustling market is fueled by imports from Japan, Korea, and China, where used bikes are discarded in bulk. Shipped in by the container load, these bikes are repaired, repainted, and given a second life on Cambodia’s roads. The variety is impressive: from sturdy Japanese mamacharis complete with baskets and chain guards to sleek road bikes and vintage frames that would thrill any cycling enthusiast.
Silk Island (Koh Dach)
A short ferry ride from Phnom Penh, Silk Island—locally known as Koh Dach—offers a refreshing escape from the city’s bustle. This serene island along the Mekong River is famous for its traditional silk weaving communities. Visitors can tour local workshops where artisans spin, dye, and weave silk using time-honored techniques passed down through generations. The island’s rural charm is amplified by stilt houses, rice paddies, and shady lanes perfect for cycling. Friendly locals often invite you to observe their craft or sample homemade snacks. It’s a great half-day trip for those seeking culture, craftsmanship, and a slower pace of life.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21)
A haunting reminder of Cambodia’s tragic past, Tuol Sleng was once a high school turned into a notorious prison during the Khmer Rouge regime. Today, it stands as a genocide museum, preserving the memory of thousands who suffered and perished here through photos, records, and exhibits. Former classrooms now display torture devices, prisoner portraits, and personal testimonies. Guided tours or audio guides offer deeper insight into this dark chapter of history. It’s emotionally heavy.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
Located just outside the city, Choeung Ek is one of the most infamous of the Khmer Rouge’s execution sites. A stupa filled with the skulls of victims stands in silent testimony to the horrors committed here. The site’s audio-guided tour walks visitors through mass graves and chilling memorials, telling personal stories of survival and loss. Despite its dark history, the grounds are surprisingly serene and landscaped. Visiting Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng together provides a comprehensive look into the brutal Khmer Rouge era.
When to Go & How to Explore
The best time to visit Phnom Penh is between November and February, when the weather is dry, cooler, and ideal for sightseeing. Tuk-tuks are the preferred way to get around—cheap, readily available, and a fun way to navigate the city’s streets. For a more traditional experience, consider taking a cyclo (cycle rickshaw) tour, which offers a slower, more immersive view of the city’s architecture and daily life. Walking is great along the riverfront and in quieter neighborhoods, but avoid peak midday heat by planning outdoor excursions in the early morning or late afternoon.
Accommodation and Food
Phnom Penh offers a wide range of accommodation to suit every kind of traveler—from budget-friendly guesthouses to luxurious five-star hotels. The same goes for its culinary scene, which is a delightful mix of local flavors and international cuisine.
Food lovers are in for a treat, with restaurants serving everything from traditional Khmer dishes to Western, Asian, and fusion fare. There are also plenty of Indian restaurants along the riverfront; one I particularly enjoyed was New Delhi Indian Restaurant, known for its flavorful curries and warm hospitality.
And if you find yourself missing your Goan fish curry rice—don’t worry. A Goan friend who works in Phnom Penh told me about a cozy little restaurant called The Goan Shack, run by a lady from Calangute. I didn’t get a chance to visit this time, but it’s definitely on my list for the next trip.
Scams to Watch Out For in Phnom Penh
While Phnom Penh is generally safe and welcoming, it’s wise to be aware of a few common tourist scams. Local advice from my hotel and tuk-tuk drivers proved invaluable:
Massage Scams: Avoid massage parlors with these bright orange signage advertising cheap services. They are notorious for overcharging, providing poor service, or soliciting inappropriate offers. Stick to reputable spas or those recommended by your hotel.
Pickpocketing: Crowded places like markets, bus terminals, and riverside festivals are hotspots for pickpockets. Keep your valuables in zipped bags or money belts, and carry only essential cash. Never leave your bag unattended or hanging loosely from your shoulder.
Phone Snatching: Thieves on motorbikes often target tourists using their phones while walking or riding tuk-tuks. Avoid taking calls or selfies near traffic, and keep your phone secured when not in use. If you’re using maps or navigation, consider downloading directions in advance.
Phnom Penh is a city of vivid contrasts: stately architecture, heart-wrenching history, vibrant markets, and warm riverside life. In just a few days, you’ll move from the golden spires of royal temples to the solemn silence of genocide memorials, and on to the colorful chaos of night markets. It’s a place that demands reflection as much as it invites discovery.
More than anything, Phnom Penh stays with you. It’s in the gentle smile of a monk at dawn, the spirited tuk-tuk drivers who know every alley, and the quiet resilience that hums beneath the surface of everyday life. Whether it’s your first visit or a return journey, the city has a way of drawing you in—and leaving a piece of itself behind.
