Tucked inside the walls of Angkor Thom and just northwest of the famous Bayon Temple, Baphuon may not receive the same attention as Angkor Wat or Ta Prohm—but it is one of the most remarkable and technically challenging architectural feats of the Khmer Empire. Nicknamed the “pyramid temple,” Baphuon was once among the tallest temples in Angkor, reflecting both the religious devotion and monumental ambition of its builder, King Udayadityavarman II.
A Temple of Ambition and Transition
Built in the mid-11th century, around 1060 CE, Baphuon was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, serving as the state temple of King Udayadityavarman II. At the time, it was described as “the most impressive temple of all,” according to Chinese envoy Zhou Daguan, who visited Angkor in the 13th century.
Designed in the temple-mountain style, Baphuon symbolizes Mount Meru, the sacred center of the Hindu cosmos. Unlike later temples built on flat surfaces, Baphuon rises steeply in tiers and features a central sanctuary accessed by steep stairways—echoing the cosmic mountain’s lofty heights.
By the late 15th century, after the Khmer Empire began its transition to Theravāda Buddhism, Baphuon was partly modified to reflect the new faith. Most notably, a massive reclining Buddha, about 70 meters long, was added to the western side of the collapsed temple—crafted using stones from the original structure.
Things to See and Experience
1. The Towering Pyramid:
The temple rises in three steeply tiered levels, reaching a height of over 34 meters, excluding the now-lost central tower, which was once likely covered in bronze. Climbing to the top offers breathtaking views of Angkor Thom and demonstrates the incredible balance and precision of ancient Khmer engineering.
2. The Reclining Buddha:
Located on the western side of the temple, this 70-meter-long sculpture was a later addition during the Buddhist period. Though somewhat abstract, the contours of the reclining Buddha’s head, arms, and torso become recognizable once pointed out. It’s a striking example of religious re-appropriation and symbolic transformation.
3. Carved Galleries and Sandstone Reliefs:
Though many carvings have been damaged or scattered over the centuries, you can still find decorative lintels, celestial dancers (apsaras), and mythological motifs adorning the gallery walls. These details reveal a fusion of Hindu and Buddhist influences, along with a high degree of craftsmanship and narrative storytelling.
4. Grand Causeway and Terrace:
A 200-meter-long elevated sandstone causeway leads from the entrance to the temple’s base. Flanked by guardian lions and naga (serpent) balustrades, this processional path once signified royal grandeur and ceremonial approach. It remains one of the most photogenic features of the site.
Restoration: The World’s Largest 3D Puzzle
In the 1960s, French archaeologists from the EFEO (École française d’Extrême-Orient) began an ambitious project using anastylosis—carefully dismantling the crumbling temple block by block for reconstruction. Over 300,000 sandstone blocks were numbered, documented, and stored.
However, during Cambodia’s civil war and the Khmer Rouge regime, the records were destroyed, turning the site into a vast archaeological puzzle with no blueprint. Restoration resumed only in the 1990s, requiring archaeologists to piece the temple back together through painstaking trial and error.
After nearly 50 years, the work was completed in 2011, making it one of the most complex and successful restoration efforts in modern archaeological history. The result is a majestic and stable monument that balances ancient heritage with modern perseverance.
A Legacy in Phnom Penh
Baphuon’s architectural legacy extends far beyond Angkor. Phsar Thmei (Central Market) in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, was completed in 1937 during the French colonial era and drew inspiration from Khmer pyramid-style architecture. Its domed central hall and radiating wings reflect the stepped symmetry found in temples like Baphuon. While the market is primarily Art Deco in style, its planning and elevation subtly pay homage to ancient Khmer engineering.
Tips for Visitors
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
Location: Inside Angkor Thom, northwest of Bayon Temple.
Climbing Warning: The pyramid stairs are steep and narrow; wear sturdy shoes and be cautious when climbing.
Entry: Included in the Angkor Pass.
I visited Baphuon in December 2023 during my cycling journey across Cambodia, while staying in Siem Reap. I hired a tuk-tuk driver for a full-day exploration of the Angkor Archaeological Park, which included Angkor Wat, Bayon, the Terrace of the Elephants, Ta Prohm, Ta Keo, and Baphuon.
After exploring Angkor Wat, I stopped at Bayon and met a local guide named Michael, who led me through Bayon’s many towers and also took me to Baphuon, the nearby Royal Palace enclosure, and the Terrace of the Elephants. His insights helped me appreciate Baphuon not just as stone, but as a living narrative of faith, engineering, and endurance.
Since I had purchased a three-day Angkor Pass, I returned the next day to revisit several sites at a more relaxed pace.
Pro Tip:
Unless you’re deeply passionate about ancient architecture, a 1-day Angkor Pass is usually sufficient to visit the major highlights: Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm. Beyond that, the temples may start to feel repetitive—but Baphuon stands out for its scale, structure, and story.
Baphuon is more than a monument—it is a symbol of transformation. It tells the story of a civilization’s changing spiritual beliefs, the scars of conflict, and the quiet triumph of restoration. In the heart of Angkor, it offers a more contemplative and less crowded experience—ideal for those who seek depth over grandeur.
