Rising from the heart of Cambodia’s ancient city of Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple is one of the most iconic and mysterious monuments in Southeast Asia. Unlike the sprawling, symmetrical beauty of Angkor Wat, Bayon greets visitors with a surreal forest of stone towers—each carved with serene, smiling faces. This masterpiece of stone and symbolism is not just a temple; it’s a riddle in sandstone, offering insights into the spirituality, politics, and artistry of the Khmer Empire.
A Glimpse into the Past
Bayon was built in the late 12th or early 13th century by King Jayavarman VII, one of the Khmer Empire’s most powerful and revered rulers. It was intended as the state temple at the heart of his new capital, Angkor Thom, and served as a Mahayana Buddhist sanctuary. Unlike Angkor Wat, which was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, Bayon reflected Jayavarman’s personal devotion to the Buddha—though later Hindu rulers added their own layers of influence.
What sets Bayon apart is its unapologetically complex architecture. At first glance, it may seem chaotic, but a closer look reveals a sophisticated interplay of symbolism and function. With 54 towers originally bearing over 200 smiling stone faces—often believed to be either a depiction of Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, or Jayavarman VII himself—the temple was both a political and spiritual statement: the king, like the deity, saw and governed all.
Things to See and Experience
1. The Towering Faces
The most captivating aspect of Bayon is undoubtedly the colossal faces adorning its towers. Each face has a calm expression with closed eyes and a subtle smile, exuding serenity. As the light shifts during the day, so does their mood—making early morning and late afternoon ideal times for photography.
2. The Bas-Reliefs
The temple’s outer galleries are lined with remarkable bas-reliefs, stretching over 1.2 kilometers, depicting both mythological scenes and everyday Khmer life. You’ll find battle scenes between the Khmer and the Cham, royal processions, fishing scenes, market vendors, cockfights, and even a woman giving birth. These intricate carvings provide a vivid, cinematic glimpse into 12th-century Cambodia.
3. The Central Shrine
The inner sanctum of Bayon was once home to a giant seated Buddha statue, which was removed and destroyed after the temple was converted to Hindu worship. Today, a smaller replica has been placed in the sanctum, and offerings of incense and flowers continue to be made.
Restoration and Preservation
Bayon’s history is not just one of construction but also of restoration and rediscovery. Over the centuries, the temple suffered from neglect, the encroaching jungle, and political shifts. During the 20th century, French archaeologists from the École Française d’Extrême-Orient began significant restoration work using anastylosis—a method that involves reassembling fallen stones in their original positions.
Today, the Japanese Government Team for Safeguarding Angkor (JSA) has taken a leading role in Bayon’s conservation. Their meticulous work, including structural repairs and cleaning of the delicate bas-reliefs, aims to preserve the temple’s integrity while respecting its ancient soul.
Practical Tips for Visiting
* Getting There: Bayon is located at the center of Angkor Thom, a short ride from Angkor Wat, and is easily accessible by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or tour vehicle from Siem Reap.
* Best Time to Visit: Visit in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and capture the towers in soft, golden light.
* What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes, water, sun protection, and a camera.
* Respect the Site: As an active place of worship, it’s important to dress modestly and behave respectfully.
I visited Bayon Temple in December 2023 during my cycling journey across Cambodia. I had hired a tuk-tuk driver who worked at the hotel where I stayed in Siem Reap. The tour began around 8 a.m. and ended at sunset, when he dropped me back at the hotel. The full-day tour of the Angkor Archaeological Park also included Angkor Wat, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants, Ta Prohm, and Ta Keo.
At Bayon, I hired a local guide named Michael, who led me through the temple complex while sharing its fascinating history, the meanings behind its intricate carvings, and details of the ongoing restoration efforts. He also took me to the nearby Royal Palace area and the Terrace of the Elephants.
Since I had purchased a three-day pass, I returned to the park the following day to explore more at my own pace. To fully appreciate Bayon Temple, plan to spend at least two to three hours exploring its many passages, towers, and stories. It’s truly unforgettable.
Bayon Temple is more than an architectural marvel—it’s a testament to Cambodia’s cultural richness, spiritual depth, and historical resilience. The enigmatic stone faces that gaze silently over Angkor Thom continue to intrigue visitors, whispering stories of kings and gods, of empire and enlightenment. For anyone visiting Angkor, Bayon is not just a place to see but an experience to feel.