Nestled in the fertile heartland of northwestern Cambodia, Battambang is a city where colonial charm, artistic spirit, and Khmer heritage converge in a beautifully quiet rhythm. Often overlooked for the iconic Angkor temples of Siem Reap or the beaches of Sihanoukville, Battambang rewards curious travelers with a rich history, vibrant street life, and an unexpectedly thriving arts scene.
I visited Battambang in December 2025 during my second cycling trip through Cambodia. My original plan was to ride from Phnom Penh to Battambang and then continue on to Siem Reap. However, with few attractions along the route, I decided to take the bus both ways instead—giving me more time to explore this quaint and charming city.
A Glimpse Into History
Founded in the 11th century by the Khmer Empire, Battambang has long been a significant trading hub. Its name—meaning “Lost Stick”—comes from the legend of Ta Dambang, a mythical cowherd who wielded a magical black staff to overthrow a king. From the 18th to early 20th century, the region was under Thai rule, and its influence still lingers in local culture and architecture.
The French colonial era brought prosperity and refinement, leaving behind elegant villas, government buildings, and a genteel atmosphere that still permeates the riverside promenade. Unlike much of Cambodia, Battambang was spared widespread destruction during the Khmer Rouge years, allowing its architectural and cultural heritage to remain remarkably intact. Today, it stands as Cambodia’s second-largest city, but still feels refreshingly laid-back and intimate.
Top Things to See and Do
1. Pay Respects to Ta Dambang
At the eastern gateway to the city stands the Ta Dambang Kro Aung statue—a black figure kneeling with the legendary “disappearing stick.” This powerful landmark is more than a photo stop; it’s a symbol of local identity and pride.
2. Ride the Bamboo Train (Norry)
Battambang’s most iconic and quirky experience is the bamboo train. Once a grassroots transport system for locals, it now offers visitors a breezy ride over old rail tracks, zipping through countryside and rice paddies on a bamboo platform powered by a small motor. It’s a simple thrill and a perfect way to enjoy the rural scenery.
3. Explore Phnom Sampeau and the Killing Caves
About 13 kilometers from the city, this dramatic limestone hill is home to Buddhist shrines, panoramic views, and somber reminders of Cambodia’s dark past. The Killing Caves, used during the Khmer Rouge era, are now marked by a glass memorial and a reclining Buddha.
Stay until dusk to witness one of nature’s most mesmerizing spectacles: millions of bats streaming out of the cave in a swirling, ribbon-like formation across the twilight sky—a breathtaking and unforgettable sight.
4. Visit Sangke Pagoda (Wat Sangke)
One of Battambang’s most striking temples, Wat Sangke is located just west of the river in the city center. It features an Angkor-style gate, intricate Khmer carvings, and a distinctive muk pracherd roof—a classic of Battambang architecture. The pagoda is especially lively during Khmer New Year, when locals gather in large numbers for celebrations and offerings.
5. Experience Battambang’s Artistic Soul
Often hailed as Cambodia’s creative capital, Battambang is home to a thriving arts scene that pulses with energy and talent. At its heart is Phare Ponleu Selpak—”The Brightness of the Arts”—a nonprofit art school founded by former refugees. Today, it’s best known for its electrifying circus performances, which combine acrobatics, music, theater, and storytelling to create a show that’s often described as a Cambodian Cirque du Soleil.
I first heard about this organisation back in 2023, during my visit to Siem Reap, when my friend Scott Sharick urged me not to miss their show. He was right—it was amazing. In fact, the photographs he took of the performance now appear on promotional posters you’ll spot everywhere in Siem Reap, from tuk-tuks to travel agencies.
6. Discover the Urban Art Scene
The city center doubles as an open-air gallery, thanks to the biennial S’Art Urban Art Festival. Murals created by local and international artists light up colonial facades with powerful imagery—from bold social commentaries to tributes to Cambodian folklore. Each wall tells a different story, offering a modern contrast to the historic streets they adorn.
7. Wander Psar Nath Market
This bustling Art Deco market, complete with a central clock tower and stepped roof, is a feast for the senses. Built in the 1930s, Psar Nath sells everything from electronics and textiles to tropical fruits and household goods. Look out for Battambang’s signature green oranges and grab a refreshing sugarcane juice while weaving through the narrow, crowded aisles.
8. Visit Battambang Provincial Museum
Housed in a grand colonial building originally designed by an Italian architect in 1905, the museum displays a modest collection of Khmer artifacts, musical instruments, and sculptures. The building itself is rich in history, having served as the mansion of Governor Chhum, later a French administrative center, and subsequently a Khmer Rouge granary. While the collection didn’t impress me, the architecture alone makes the visit—and the entry fee—well worth it.
9. Take a Countryside Tour
While I didn’t have time for this myself, I met travelers who raved about rural tuk-tuk tours. These excursions take you through emerald rice fields, sleepy villages, and cottage industries—like rice paper making, bamboo sticky rice cooking, and fermented fish paste production. There’s even a crocodile farm for the curious.
When to Go
The best time to visit Battambang is between November and March, when the weather is dry and relatively cool. April and May can be sweltering, while the rainy season (June–October) turns the countryside into a lush green wonderland—beautiful, but potentially muddy for road travel.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Battambang ranges from backpacker hostels to stylish boutique hotels, many housed in restored colonial buildings. I stayed at the Sky Palace Boutique Hotel, a comfortable and cozy place about a kilometer from the city center.
*images of the hotel are taken from their website.
Getting There
Battambang is easily accessible from both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Regular buses and trains connect it to Phnom Penh, with the journey taking around six hours. From Siem Reap, you can travel by bus (about 3–4 hours) or, during the wet season, opt for a scenic boat ride across Tonlé Sap Lake. Though slower, the boat journey is a memorable experience, winding through floating villages, wetlands, and mangrove forests—a unique introduction to Cambodia’s rural charm.
Why Battambang?
Battambang may not have the grandeur of Angkor or the urban bustle of Phnom Penh, but therein lies its charm. It’s a place to slow down, dig deep, and connect with Cambodia’s heart—past and present. Whether you’re riding a bamboo train, cycling through golden fields, admiring street murals, or applauding a gravity-defying circus act, Battambang invites you to see a side of Cambodia that’s soulful, surprising, and utterly unforgettable.
