One evening in May 2024, while I was in Tom’s travel office buying a bus ticket to Tam Coc, he casually suggested, “Why not visit the Phong Nha caves too?” That spontaneous nudge led me to one of Vietnam’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders.
Beneath the Jungle: A Hidden World
Tucked into the heart of Quang Binh Province, the village of Phong Nha, nestled beside the tranquil Son River, serves as the gateway to a vast underground realm. Enveloped by jungle-draped limestone mountains, this sleepy village has gained international acclaim thanks to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is home to more than 300 caves, many still unexplored. Sculpted over millions of years, the region’s karst landscape conceals a surreal labyrinth of caverns, grottoes, and hidden waterways.
During the Vietnam War, Quang Binh’s narrow terrain—just 50 kilometers from coast to border—played a crucial strategic role. The famous Ho Chi Minh Trail snaked through these mountains, and the region endured relentless bombing. More than 1.5 million tons of explosives were dropped over 8,000 square kilometers, yet today the land tells a different story: one of natural rebirth and quiet wonder.
Arrival Before Dawn
I arrived in Phong Nha by sleeper bus, departing Tam Coc at 11pm and reaching the village around 4am. The air was cool and still, with the sun yet to rise. I wandered the quiet streets until I came across Moonlight Villa, where the kind owner, already awake, welcomed me with a smile and a warm room.
With limited time, I planned a day trip to explore Phong Nha Cave, Tien Son Cave, and Paradise Cave—each distinct, each unforgettable. Visiting the famed Son Doong Cave, however, would have to wait. Tours must be booked well in advance—often a year ahead—and the expedition’s cost was far beyond my budget.
1. Phong Nha & Tien Son Caves
Family-friendly | Scenic boat ride | Ancient formations
My day began with a tranquil boat ride up the Son River to the entrance of Phong Nha Cave. Known for housing the world’s longest underground river, the cave is a cathedral of stone. Stalactites and stalagmites rise and fall like sculptures, crafted by centuries, their delicate forms shaped by dripping mineral-rich water. The name “Phong Nha” translates to “Wind and Teeth,” a reference to the jagged stalagmites that once stood at the cave’s mouth.
A short climb of 583 steps above brings you to Tien Son Cave, perched halfway up the mountain. Sometimes referred to as the “Castle of Stalactites,” the cave dazzles with multicolored mineral veins and grand formations that resemble terraced rice fields. Marble-like columns rise like natural monuments, while the ceiling shimmers in gold and silver hues. According to the British Cave Research Association, both caves began forming tens of millions of years ago as underground rivers carved through limestone, later diverted by geological shifts that created the caves we see today.
Access: By boat on the Son River
Entry: 150,000 VND (~$6 USD) + boat rental (360,000 VND/boat, seats 12)
Hours: Daily, 7:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
2. Paradise Cave (Dong Thien Duong)
Dramatic formations | Elevated boardwalk | Easy access
Heavy rains cut short my first day, so I visited Paradise Cave the following morning on a rented motorbike. Discovered in 1992 by the British Cave Research Association, this cave wasn’t fully explored until 2005—when its astonishing length of 31.4 kilometers was finally revealed, outstretching Phong Nha Cave.
The cave’s interior is a marvel: cathedral-like chambers, intricate stalagmites, and soaring rock formations illuminated by soft lighting along a one-kilometer wooden walkway. The journey begins with an electric buggy ride from the parking area, followed by a 600-meter hike up to the cave entrance.
Entry: 250,000 VND (~$10 USD)
Highlights: Vast chambers, wooden boardwalk, accessible layout
3. Son Doong Cave
Once-in-a-lifetime expedition | Limited access | $3,000 tour
No mention of Phong Nha’s caves complex is complete without Son Doong, the largest cave in the world—its stalagmites rivaling Big Ben in height. A multi-day expedition, led exclusively by Oxalis Adventure, takes explorers through jungle trails, underground rivers, and immense chambers lit by collapsed ceilings that allow sunlight to pour in. It’s a challenging journey—four days, three nights—but one that adventurers book months in advance.
Son Doong cave images: Oxalis Adventure
Beyond the Caves
If you have time, stop by Dark Cave and Chay River, where you can enjoy ziplining, kayaking and a mud bath too. I spotted the action while en route to Paradise Cave but couldn’t join due to my bus schedule.
Dark Cave images: https://sondoongcave.info
On the ride, I made several stops to photograph churches, along with a few monuments commemorating fallen soldiers—poignant reminders of the region’s turbulent past.
Where to Eat & Stay
The Rice House restaurant was a culinary highlight, serving authentic Vietnamese cuisine with charm and ambiance. As for accommodations, Phong Nha caters to all—from cozy countryside homestays and hotels to backpacker hostels. My stay at Moonlight Villas, was comfortable and pleasant.
How to Get There
By Air: Fly into Dong Hoi Airport (1 hour away)
By Train: Hanoi to Dong Hoi (approx. 10 hours)
By Bus: Sleeper buses run from Hanoi, Hue, Ninh Binh, and Tam Coc
Tips for Visiting the Caves
Wear sturdy footwear, the caves require stair climbs or walking over uneven surfaces.
Respect the formations: do not touch stalactites or stalagmites.
Take water, especially for longer excursions.
Mornings are less crowded—arrive early for a more serene experience.
Best Time to Visit
The dry season, from February to August, is ideal. Avoid the rainy months of September to November, when flooding can close cave tours. I visited in early May 2024 and enjoyed mild weather and manageable crowds.
Phong Nha may not feature on every tourist’s first trip to Vietnam, especially those sticking to the popular Saigon–Hoi An–Hanoi route. But for those with time and curiosity, it offers something rare: a journey into a world sculpted by water, time, and geological wonder. The silence inside the caves, broken only by the occasional drip of mineral-rich water, reminds you that nature is the greatest artist of all.
If you’re ready to explore the underground wonders of Vietnam, Phong Nha is waiting—with quiet caves, breathtaking views, and stories written in stone.
Phong Nha & Tien Son Caves
Paradise Cave
Churches in Phong Nha
