As you walk around Hanoi, you’ll quickly notice the same photos on display at every travel shop—stunning shots of Halong Bay, the terraced hills of Sapa, the karst landscapes of Tam Coc, and the winding mountain roads of Ha Giang.
I had already checked Halong Bay off my list during my first trip and had just wrapped up a tough (but unforgettable) cycling journey to Sapa. My original plan was to stay on the bicycle and tackle the Ha Giang Loop as well. But with the heat kicking in—and my legs still aching from the climbs to Sapa—I decided to take it a bit easier this time. The Ha Giang Loop is no joke, with daily climbs of over 1,500 meters, so I figured it was time to let someone else do the riding.
I stopped by my go-to Vietnam travel planner, Tom, at his Tenth of July Travel office in Hanoi. As always, he had a solution. He connected me with a trusted local company in Ha Giang that organizes motorbike tours of the Loop. It sounded perfect—and spoiler alert: it was exactly what I needed.
What is the Ha Giang Loop?
The Ha Giang Loop is a scenic motorbike route winding through Vietnam’s northernmost province, hugging the border with China. It takes travelers through some of the country’s most dramatic landscapes—limestone mountains, deep river gorges, and remote ethnic minority villages where life moves at a slower pace.
The full loop typically takes three to five days, depending on your pace, and passes through towns like Dong Van, Meo Vac, and Yen Minh. Along the way, you’ll encounter traditional stilt houses, vibrant markets, and some of Southeast Asia’s most breathtaking mountain passes—including the legendary Ma Pi Leng Pass.
Day 0: Hanoi to Ha Giang
April 26, 2024
Route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/StBzhbxsXf8pjqzw6
After an early morning pickup from my hotel in Hanoi, I boarded a six-hour bus to Ha Giang City—the gateway to Vietnam’s northern highlands. Upon arrival, I checked into the Hong Hao Hotel, run by the tour organizers, and got some much-needed rest before the adventure officially began the next day.
Day 1: Ha Giang to Đồng Văn
April 27, 2024
Route: Ha Giang → Quan Ba Heaven Gate → Fairy Bosom Hills → Ma Pi Leng Pass → Vuong Family Palace → Đồng Văn
Total Distance: Approx. 125 km
The hotel reception was buzzing with travelers from around the world, yet everything was impressively well-organized. Participants were divided into groups and assigned their respective tour leaders based on the type and duration of their tours.
I had opted for a 4-day, 3-night tour and was placed in a group led by Happy Phúc Nga—a man whose name perfectly matched his upbeat personality. Our group included two Brits, two Aussies, and a Frenchman. Each of us was paired with a local driver who would guide us safely through the challenging and scenic Loop.
After a short, informative briefing from Happy about the route, safety precautions, and general dos and don’ts, we set off from the hotel at 9 a.m. Our destination for the day was Đồng Văn, approximately 125 kilometers away.
Stop 1: Quan Ba Heaven Gate & The Fairy Bosom Hills
Our first major stop was Quan Ba Heaven Gate, about 43 km north of Ha Giang City. Perched at 1,500 meters above sea level, this viewpoint marks the highest point on the road between Ha Giang and Quan Ba. Back in 1939, the French colonial government erected a massive ironwood gate here to control access to the Đồng Văn Plateau. At the time, this area—comprising Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac—was known as the “Autonomous Region of the Mong People” and remained largely isolated from the rest of Vietnam.
Though the gate no longer exists, the panoramic views are still unforgettable. Below, the Tam Son Valley stretches out, a colorful patchwork of rice fields nestled between dramatic limestone karsts. One of the valley’s most iconic features is the “Fairy Bosom Hills”—two symmetrical karst mounds that resemble the breasts of a young woman. This whimsical natural formation has become a symbol of Quan Ba and a much-photographed landmark.
Legend has it that a fairy fell in love with a man from the valley. When the gods discovered the affair, they forced her to return to the heavens. Before she left, she cut off her breasts and left them behind to nourish her children. Locals believe the magical milk still runs through the hills, blessing the valley with fertility and beauty.
Here, I met a group of English cyclists tackling the Loop on two wheels—brave souls indeed!
Stop 2: Ma Pi Leng Pass
After a relaxed lunch in Tam Son, we continued on to the crown jewel of the Loop: Ma Pi Leng Pass. Stretching for around 20 kilometers along Highway 4C, this mountain pass is widely regarded as the most spectacular in all of Vietnam. The name “Ma Pi Leng” means “bridge of a horse’s nose” in the Hmong language—a reference to the pass’s sharp, narrow ridge.
Built in the 1960s by local ethnic minorities under extremely difficult conditions, the road was part of a strategic transport network used during the Indochina Wars and later linked to the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Today, Ma Pi Leng Pass is an engineering marvel. Its narrow roads cling to sheer cliffs high above the emerald-green Nho Que River gorge, offering jaw-dropping views and thrilling curves that challenge even the most experienced riders. It’s the kind of landscape that leaves you breathless—both from its beauty and the sheer drop below.
Stop 3: Meo King’s Palace
Our final stop of the day was the Vuong Family Palace, located in Sa Phin village. This stately mansion was once home to Vuong Chinh Duc, known as the “Meo King,” who led the Hmong people in the early 20th century. Built in a mix of French and Chinese architectural styles, the palace stands as a symbol of the family’s power and prosperity.
Surrounded by stone walls and set amid a grove of pine trees, the palace served both as a residence and an administrative hub for the Hmong leadership. Walking through its stone courtyards and wooden chambers felt like stepping into a lost world of Hmong aristocracy and resilience.
Arrival in Dong Van
As the sun began to dip behind the karst mountains, we covered the final 10-kilometer stretch to Đồng Văn, our overnight stop. After checking into a cozy hotel and freshening up, we gathered for dinner at a local restaurant. While the group downed round after round of “happy water” (a potent local rice wine), I chose to take a walk through the lively town square. A cultural program was underway, with traditional music and dance performances. Street vendors sold local food, crafts, and souvenirs. The crisp mountain air and festive spirit made it a perfect end to an unforgettable first day on the Ha Giang Loop.
Day 2: Dong Van to Meo Vac
April 28, 2024
Route: Dong Van → Youth Volunteers Monument → Nho Que River & Tu San Canyon Boat Ride → Meo Vac → Du Gia
Total Distance: Approx. 100 km
We were all set to meet in the hotel lobby at 9 a.m., but since I woke up early, I decided to explore the famous Sunday market. It was already in full swing, with the streets alive with locals selling everything from livestock to fruits, vegetables, and dried fish. Plastic cans of freshly distilled homemade rice wine were stacked for sale. Barbers with their makeshift salons offered quick haircuts as the market buzzed with energy. At the old town square, an interesting local game was underway—players had to swing a cloth ball through a suspended loop to win a prize.
(Click here to view the video of the game)
Stop 1: Youth Volunteers Monument
After a wholesome breakfast, we set off along the aptly named Happiness Road. Our first stop was the Youth Volunteers Monument—a powerful tribute to the young Vietnamese workers who built this strategic mountain road. Standing 12 meters tall and crafted from natural stone, the monument features five sculpted figures representing Youth Volunteers from eight northern provinces, symbolizing strength, unity, and sacrifice. The base includes three detailed reliefs: one showing volunteers bidding farewell to loved ones, another of them cutting through rock and mountain, and a third depicting their victorious spirit as they forged a path through treacherous terrain. It’s a moving tribute to those who quite literally carved the way to happiness.
Stop 2: Nho Que River & Tu San Canyon Boat Ride
Next came one of the most serene highlights of the trip—a boat ride along the Nho Que River through the dramatic Tu San Canyon. One of the deepest canyons in Southeast Asia, its limestone cliffs rise steeply on either side of the emerald-green river. Gliding through these jade waters on a motorboat, we were treated to a scene of raw natural grandeur. The towering cliffs, the peaceful river, and the gentle hum of the boat offered a rare moment of tranquility in the heart of rugged northern Vietnam.
Stop 3: Lunch in Meo Vac & Ride to Du Gia
After soaking in the views, we rode another 12 km to Meo Vac town for lunch. Refueled and rested, we continued the journey—another 70 km through winding mountain roads—to Tom’s Du Gia Homestay, a charming retreat and our stop for the night.
Day 3: Du Gia to Quan Ba
April 29, 2024
Route: Du Gia → Du Gia Waterfall → Lung Tam Linen Cooperative → Lam Nui Homestay
Total Distance: Approx. 65 km
While waiting for the others to wake up, I took a peaceful morning stroll through the countryside. The fresh mountain air, soft morning light, and quiet rustling of leaves made for a perfect start to the day.
Stop 1: Du Gia Waterfall
Our first stop was the Du Gia Waterfall, already bustling with travelers and locals enjoying their day off. While most of the group dove in for a refreshing swim, I opted to stay dry and take it all in from the rocks.
(Click here to view people diving into the water)
Stop 2: Lung Tam Linen Cooperative
After a relaxed lunch break, we headed to one of the cultural highlights of the trip—the Lung Tam Linen Cooperative, a women-led enterprise preserving the Hmong tradition of weaving hemp textiles. We observed how raw hemp is transformed into thread, dyed with natural indigo, and woven into beautiful fabrics on wooden looms. The designs, often inspired by traditional Hmong motifs, are vibrant, intricate, and entirely handmade.
(Click here to watch the women weaving the cloth)
Stop 3: Arrival at Lam Nui Homestay
After an hour at the weaving center, we rode the final 10 km to Lam Nui Homestay, tucked away in a peaceful valley. With mist-covered hills and quiet surroundings, it was the perfect place to rest before the final leg of our journey.
Day 4: From Quan Ba to Ha Giang City
April 30, 2024
Route: Quan Ba → Lung Khuy Cave → Ha Giang City
Total Distance: Approx. 75 km
Stop 1: Lung Khuy Cave Hike
Our final day of the Ha Giang adventure began with a scenic ride toward Lung Khuy Cave, a natural attraction near Quan Ba known for its striking stalactite formations and tranquil atmosphere. To reach it, I hiked a steep 2 km uphill trail that wound through terraced rice fields and pine forests. Inside, the cave offered a refreshing escape from the midday sun. Though not as grand as the massive caves of Phong Nha, Lung Khuy had its own quiet charm—and the butterflies that landed on my hand along the trail made the experience even more special.
Stop 2: Lunch at Duc Duong & Final Ride
Once the group had reassembled, we rode another 25 km to the Đức Dương Eatery for a hearty lunch and a well-earned break. From there, it was a smooth 41 km journey back to the Hong Hao Hotel in Ha Giang City, where our adventure had begun four days earlier—now with dusty bikes, tired muscles, and eyes still full of mountain views.
Over the four days, we navigated hairpin bends, crossed dramatic mountain passes that felt like the edge of the world, stayed in charming homestays, and connected with locals. The Ha Giang Loop offers more than just stunning scenery—it’s a reminder that travel, even in its bumpiest, most unpredictable form, can bring us closer to the people we ride with and the places we pass through. As the bikes cooled outside the hotel and helmets came off for the last time, one thing was clear: this had been a demanding yet unforgettable adventure.
My Thoughts:
To be honest, the Ha Giang Loop didn’t quite live up to my expectations—and here’s why:
- Over four days, the scenery started to feel repetitive—primarily the same karst mountains and terraced rice fields.
- Only a couple of highlights truly stood out: the boat ride and the visit to the Hmong weaving village.
- The Honda Blade motorbikes we used had a low seat height, which made them quite uncomfortable for someone like me, who’s 6 feet tall. They’re better suited for pillion riders under 5’7″.
- The fellow travellers left a lot to be desired. The French guy was quite as a church mouse, and the other four were obnoxious arseholes—keeping to themselves, delaying starts, and showing little consideration for the group.
Also, perhaps my perception is shaped by the fact that I’ve cycled over 3,000 km across Vietnam—from Sapa in the north to Chau Doc in the south—and have seen this beautiful country at a much slower, more intimate pace.
Hong Hao Tours – The Ha Giang Loop Tour Organisers
They were incredibly professional, managing every aspect of the tour with seamless coordination and meticulous attention to detail. From route planning and scheduled stops to accommodations, everything was executed flawlessly. The riders were excellent—always driving safely and making us feel secure throughout the journey. Our tour guide, Happy Phuc, went above and beyond to ensure everything ran smoothly, from comfortable stays to delicious meals. More than that, he and the fellow riders treated us not just as guests but as family, showing genuine care and warmth every step of the way, making the experience truly unforgettable.
Things to Remember
1. Self-Drive Regulations
If you plan to ride on your own, keep in mind:
You’ll need an international driving license under the 1968 Convention.
Without it, you risk a fine of 3 million VND if stopped by the police.
If you don’t meet the above criteria, it’s best to hire a local rider for safety and peace of mind.
2. Happy Water
This is the local rice wine or home-brewed alcohol made by ethnic minority tribes. The term is common across Southeast Asia—in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Drink in moderation. In our group, the Brits and Aussies drank like fish; by Day 2, they were seeing stars.
3. Organized Tours
There are numerous companies offering various Ha Giang Loop tours—from self-drive packages to “easy rider” options (where you’re the pillion), using different types of bikes and even jeeps. Choose based on your comfort and experience level.
Why Is It So Popular—Especially Among Young Travelers?
The Ha Giang Loop has become a rite of passage for young backpackers—particularly Europeans—seeking a raw, off-the-beaten-path experience in Vietnam.
Unlike the more commercialized Halong Bay or the well-trodden streets of Hoi An, the Loop still feels wild, remote, and authentic. The thrill of maneuvering hairpin bends through misty mountain passes, the camaraderie of group rides, homestays with local families, and nightly rounds of “happy water” with shouts of một, hai, ba, dzô! all add to the experience.
It’s an intoxicating mix of adrenaline, cultural immersion, and breathtaking landscapes—and yes, it’s very Instagrammable too.
